Cars parked tightly on a narrow street. An automobile tire discarded between bits of trash. A television running off ghetto-rigged electricity. Men young and old together sitting, relaxed on upturned soda crates waiting for a football match to kickoff.  A classic Egyptian scene during the Cairo Derby.

The tournament ultimately crashes sports clubs Zamalek and El Ahly against one another in fierce combat. In this contest — in this North African city — no vagueness or middle ground is possible. Each citizen chooses a side, in fact they must choose. Paradoxically for the outside observer, the conflict appears both congenial (among friendly rivals) but also has the atmosphere of a deadly struggle. Loyalty to one team is mandatory and non-negotiable, runs with families and lasts a lifetime. I met no man who had ever switched his allegiance.